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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, nestled high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.